Penske shocks for Clubsport

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Dynotech	Penske shocks for Clubsport		Lead	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 11 10/25/09 20:58:41	Tags : None Hi Guys.Looking for bit of advice if possible.I have upgraded my early #003 (1997) Clubsport to The Hayabusa K9 engine which is great with all the extra power and torque (168rwhp 98ft/lb torque at the wheels).I am running 10" rears and 7.5"fronts on Kumho F3 tyres but am having lots of traction problems.The car only runs a basic Avo single adjustable shock with 350 front and 450 rear springs.I have read Jakes and various other posts with interest and think Penske would be the way to go.I believe the 8300 is the current shock but was looking for some help with the correct shock and valving.Is there also a good suplier you use.I am considering trying Hoosier tyres but they are very expensive over here. Any suggestions would be great.I am in New Zealand. Thanks Gary
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pleonard2000		#1	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 74 10/27/09 14:05:26	I'm sure Jake will pitch in, but I'll give you my info as well; I've ben running a ProSport for the past 2 years, and have got it working pretty darn good. I have Koni 2812 shocks all round, with 450 lb springs and 845 valves in front, and 700 lb springs and 140 valves in rear. The Konis are double adjustable, but I run them on full soft. A few folks have 140 valves all around, but the 845s are supposed to be softer so I went with those. They are the only valving softer than the 140s. This thread has a bunch of Koni info; http://socalpeeps.yuku.com/topic/586?page=4 I've run several tires ... Avon and Hankook for radials, and Goodyear and Hoosier for bias plies. I've finally settled on the Hoosiers, but I had good luck with all of them. Radials require more camber (3.5 deg up front), and therefore different control arms than the bias plies, which use only about 1 deg up front. The radials last longer on a hot day, and through more overall heat cycles, but I think the bias plies are a tiny bit quicker overall. When are you having traction troubles? Paul Leonard Driving Force Motorsports Radical ProSport 1000 Last Edited By: pleonard2000 10/27/09 14:07:31. Edited 1 time.
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Dynotech		#2	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 11 10/27/09 19:15:09	Hi Paul. Thanks for the info.I am running Kumho S700 240/570 R13 + 180/550 R13 Radial tyres with -1.5 dgree on rear and -2.5degree camber upfront. The backend lacks grip on the tight2nd/3rd gear corners and fells wallowy on the faster turns.I was thinking of trying 300lb springs upfront and 350lb rear but my shocks are pretty basic Avo units which are a good few years old now so i think its time for new ones.Can I ask where you goy your Konis from and what did they cost.Thanks again Gary New Zealand
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sal3coach		#3	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 212 10/28/09 12:18:48	If you aren't in the US, the Penskes might not be a good choice inless there is a dealer where you are--the konis are much more international. The Penskes are much cheaper to maintain than the Konis but not sure you can get the parts. After a lot of tweaking, we finally got the Konis figured out. I can't comment on the 845 valving as they were not available when we did ours. I have been very pleased with the 140 valving front and rear. We run them adjusted with less oomph in the front but with the 140s rear.845s up front you might not need to adjust them. I found that adjusting the shocks made a big difference especially with the 1500Powertec in the Prosport. Not clear what toe you are using but I found a lot more stability with some toe-out both front and rear. Finally, the factory springs are pretty bad and I suggest you think about checking spring rates and going from there or get better springs. If you try 300 front, I would think you need at least 450lbs rear. I run Hypercoils with 350lb front and 500 lb rear and find that works well on tracks around here These folks are very knowledgeable about both Koni and Penske and they did a great job for all of us Koni owners. http://www.performanceshock.com/ if you check the Koni website you should be able to find a dealer closer. My cars had the Konis so not sure of pricing but probably around 4-5KUSD for either shock... Hope this helps Craig
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pleonard2000		#4	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 74 10/28/09 15:08:39	Hi Gary, The Konis came on the car when I bought it. Not sure where to recommend you look for them. You might get better rear grip, especially during mid corner and corner exit, if you put just a little toe in into the rear ... like 1/16 - 1/8 inch total toe in. I run almost zero toe on the front ... maybe 1/16 total toe out at most. You also might experiment with tire pressures .. I use just 18 psi hot now on the bias plies, but I used to run 19 to 20 on the radials. Perhaps also try your rear sway bar on full soft. I have the hard/firm bar, but run it on full soft. Finally, I added a 2nd wing element, like on the high downforce package for the PR6es ... it actually made quite a difference and is quite sensitive to adjustment. If I change the overall wing angle by just a couple of degrees, the car will change from oversteer to understeer in medium and high speed corners. Sorry - no better pics of the wing than this; Paul Leonard Driving Force Motorsports Radical ProSport 1000
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Jake Latham		#5	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 723 10/30/09 10:10:27 Moderator	Hi Gary - I did indeed have Penske 8100's on my car. Worked great once I had them valved properly. Dyno charts are here: http://www.jakelatham.com/radical/projects/shock_dynos/ and show the range of adjustment and such. I'm a fan of Penskes, since rebuilding them is so easy and cheap - at least here in the US. Konis are a big pain in the butt, IMO. As for springrates, again, IMO, you are way, way too soft. I could never get the car to handle properly with the factory springrates. 400 was my working minimum for the front, and I settled with 450/700, using the "medium" swaybars front and rear. I had a double-element rear wing as well, which was necessary after I fashioned a larger front splitter to help with the front downforce. As for the bias ply tires, as Paul says, they only need a bit of camber - around 1.5* or so up front, maybe .5* in the rear. Cheers! -Jake
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Dynotech		#6	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 11 11/01/09 16:12:56	Thanks for all the advice Guys.This is really usefull.Our tracks here are pretty tight and bumpy and with the existing shocks found the softer springs better. Like the website Jake! Do you have a good supplier for tyres in the States.We have someone who ships containers out of Long Beach regularly. Thanks again Gary
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